Archive Page 81

My first (real) trip to Vegas – Part One

I was in Las Vegas once before. The year was 1995 and I was 20 years old. My friends Angie and GW and I drove out to the desert following our sophomore year finals for a Dead show. It didn’t seem a very Vegas-y thing to do, but hell, why not? I don’t remember being particularly nervous about the situation, but then again, I was 20. We stayed at some awful, awful motel. We made the mistake of shutting off the air conditioning when we went out to explore for the night. When we returned, we realized why the air had been on full blast — in the absence of a freezing condition, dozens of bugs had come out to cover the walls. We quickly turned the air back on and slept with our heads under the sheets in total fear of living things dropping on us throughout the night. I don’t remember how many nights we were there, but it must have been at least two because one night we could afford to stay in a run-down casino instead of the motel. It must have been a Sunday night when rates are cheaper. All I really remember about the casino was people staring and sneering at us, knowing we were there for the Dead show and not for Vegas itself. The most memorable part of the trip, though, was not the show, but getting caught playing the penny slots with GW’s fake ID. Go big or go home was not our motto. While go big is still not my motto, last weekend’s trip was a tad different.

My friends and I headed out to Vegas to celebrate Mollie and her waning bachelorette status. Stephanie and I were to arrive first, at 10:30 pm on Thursday night. Instead, we arrived last, at 7:30 am Friday morning. What a drag. Our Frontier flight was delayed out of Madison almost three hours due to mechanical problems on the flight coming from Denver. “Mechanical problems” is not something I ever want to hear in an airport. By the time we landed in Denver it was 11 pm and there were no more flights to Vegas until the morning. Frontier had reserved us a room at the Ambassador hotel, put us on the 6:40 am Friday flight to Vegas and given us a $200 voucher should we choose to fly Frontier again. Annoying, I thought, but fine; these things happen. We arrive in the hotel shuttle area of the airport around 11:30. I call the hotel and ask if the shuttle comes regularly or if we have to ask for it to be sent. I am told, “Oh no, you definitely have to call for it if you want it to come.” I am a bit surprised, as there are dozens of shuttles making the rounds right in front of me, and there are certainly dozens of us that just arrived on Frontier waiting for the Ambassador’s shuttle, but I politely respond that I am at the airport and would very much like a ride to the hotel. We wait. And we wait. And we wait. Stephanie asks a cab driver how much it would be for a ride to the hotel. Disturbingly, he does not know where our hotel is, but estimates it would cost us $35. Zoinks. So we wait. Shortly after midnight, a young man who was in line behind me in Madison says to the crowd (which has waned down to the sad lot of us that are waiting for the Ambassador — we had looked longingly at the people who had gotten on the shuttles for the Marriott, the Comfort Inn, the Holiday Inn, even — gasp! — the Hyatt), “Are you guys waiting for the Ambassador? I just got off the phone with the hotel and she told me it would be a half an hour until the shuttle gets here.” ARGH!!! Is this a joke? Unfortunately not. A cab driver who had helped us earlier when we did not know where to wait overhears this and says, “I can take 6 of you there for $8 a piece.” Well, Stephanie and I are sold! Done and done! It’s after midnight, we don’t actually know when this shuttle is coming, we certainly don’t know whether we’ll all be able to get on it, and our flight leaves in 6 hours. Apparently, though, not everyone in the crowd sees it that way. One annoying, mathematically gifted woman says, without making eye contact with the cab driver, “Six times eight is a lot of money.” With gas at $4 a gallon, the driver’s megacar and the hotel 12 miles away, I want to tell her it’s really not so much money, but all I think is, “Who cares? It’s not $48 for you and I’m exhausted!” Instead, I say nothing but watch with increasing regret as the bartering cab driver walks away. We wait. Finally, Stephanie — ever the savvy traveler and savvy all-things woman — says, “I’m going to ask him if he’ll take us for $20.” I quickly say, “Make it $25!” She does, he does and we’re all smiles! As I walk toward the cab, a desperate man nearly grabs me and says, “Are you going to the Red Lion???” I sadly inform him, “No. The Ambassador.” I felt bad — he clearly would have paid $8 to get him safely to his bed. We drove off as the wannabe Ambassador crowd watched on.

Twenty minutes later we were at the hotel (it is not close to the airport at all). We started to check in when the hotel’s phone rang. The woman said, “Yes, he’ll be there any minute” and hung up. We already knew we’d made the right choice, but that was the icing. Twenty minutes later and the group was still waiting for the shuttle. When we arrived at the airport at 6 the next morning, I half expected them to still be waiting. I suppose by that time, though, they were in line for security.

It might be spring

It’s possible that it’s spring, but the signs are very confusing. For example, there is this:

Backyard snow, April 20, 2011

On the other hand, there is this:

Gracie with snow-surviving flowers

This week marks the first Wednesday Martin Luther King, Jr Blvd farmers’ market of the season! It’s always a small affair, but this year’s appeared smaller than usual due (I suspect) to yesterday’s craptastic snow/hail/sleet/rain storm, as well as today’s chilly weather. Still, there were some hardy souls.

First Wednesday Farmers' Market 2011

 

There was a wee bit of a green. And I mean a wee bit. One of the six stands was selling greenery – some tasty looking spring salad mix, which we bought. It warmed my heart to see. We gravitated toward it. And we weren’t the only ones — the proprietor told us someone had seen the salad from her office in the city/county building and come down to look and said, “I spotted green!” It’s a welcome sight.

Early spring greens

Aaron bought delicious cheese curds, as well, but the most noteworthy stand for me was the Jamie’s and Son dessert stand. Jamie’s used to be a cookie shop on State Street that served the world’s most delicious cookies. It’s been closed for a number of years (update: apparently it closed in 2007 — I had thought it was earlier), so I was heartened to see this apparent revival. The stand today didn’t appear to be selling cookies, but I’m keeping my eye on this one.

Revival of the great Jamie's cookie?

 

In sum, as I’ve said a million times, I heart Wisconsin.

Left turn at Albuquerque

Yikes! I knew it had been a long time since I had posted, but I had no idea it has been almost a month. Oops! Do I even have any readers out there anymore? I wouldn’t blame you all if you had abandoned me for more prolific sites.

In my defense, since returning from vacation, I’ve been swamped at work and it’s caused me to be a rather boring TV zombie at home. Even more so than usual. Things are starting to be more normal again, though, so I think I should try to return to other more normal things in my life, like writing on my blog.

I have avoided getting into all of the latest political events on this blog and I’ve repeatedly asked myself why. I’m actually not really sure. I think the real reason may be that protesting and reading everything I can about the day-to-day events has been too exhausting and draining for me to then sit down at night and rehash everything and attempt to get it into a semicoherent form. The other, even better, reason is that there are far more competent and knowledgeable folks than I out there writing great information about the political landscape we now find ourselves in. I’ll just say this: things are crazy. Almost every day I find myself saying, “Wow. I never guessed that this would happen” about yet another game-changer.

Spring has sprung in Madison, but we did not receive the amazing thunderstorms that everyone forecasted would hit us yesterday. Instead, we heard about one low growl of thunder and saw about three raindrops hit the windows. I’m glad in the sense that less danger is obviously a platform I can support, but I love a good thunderstorm and was looking forward to cuddling up with Gracie and listening to the rain. Oh well. It’s April now so there are sure to be a few storms in the future.

Speaking of April, I was supposed to head out to the great state of California this weekend to visit the greatest actress of our generation (GAOOG). But alas, wouldn’t you know, GAOOG has booked a part on a series that has taken her to Albuquerque for the next two weeks. Oops for me! But great news for GAOOG, as well as the rest of the world as we will soon be able to see GAOOG resplendent in saris and, rumor has it, a wig.

That’s about all I have for now. Boring, I know, but I’m just trying to get back up on that posting horse of mine. Giddy Up.

SXM: The food

I’ll (try to) wind up my St Maarten/St Martin postings here with a post on the island’s food. Really, eight nights was not nearly enough time to explore all of the island’s culinary offerings. For example, it felt as though shawarma was advertised on every corner, but did we ever try any? In a word, no. In three words, no we didn’t. In five words, we ran out of time. The island seems to boast just about any type of food you could want — Chinese, Indian, Jamaican, German, Middle Eastern, Italian, French, American, Moroccan, etc. Again, there was just not enough time! Or enough room in our stomachs. But, we did what we could and here’s a few pics from the highlights of our epicurean adventures.

Aaron's lunch at Talk of the Town

This first pic is from Talk of the Town, which is a lolo in Grand Case, a town on the French side of the island. A lolo is a restaurant that is housed around a big grill on which tons and tons of barbecue is prepared. Here, Aaron had barbecue ribs with rice and beans, green salad and macaroni and cheese for $8.

Aaron's lunch at Yellow Beach

This pic is of Aaron’s lunch at Yellow Beach, which is one of three restaurants on Pinel Island. Pinel Island is a teeny tiny island, also on the French side, and a short ferry boat ride from Cul de Sac (around $7 round trip). This was our most expensive meal, but the trigger fish — shown here — was on special and was unbelievably tasty.

Shrimp pizza at Orange Fever

I love good Italian-style pizza and, while it is really hard to find in MSN, there is tons of it in SXM! This is a picture of the shrimp pizza we shared at Orange Fever, which is a little beach bar on Orient Bay Beach (one of maybe two dozen such bars — they all rent chairs and umbrellas for the day, serve drinks and food). I had never considered shrimp on pizza before, but we had had it the day before at Rancho del Sol. We had stopped at Rancho del Sol while we were out exploring and were desperate for food. Once we got there, though, we weren’t really feeling the menu, but we decided to split the shrimp and scallop pizza. Maybe it was just because we were ravenous, but holy cow was it super good. The pizza was divine and the shrimp were just perfectly grilled and scrumptious (the scallops were really not much to write about). Anyway, so we went for it again at Orange Fever and while it wasn’t as tasty, it was pretty yumsville.

Aaron's dinner at The Rib Shack

On Tuesday nights in Grand Case, the main street shuts down to car traffic (why it doesn’t prohibit car traffic every day on this incredibly narrow, one-way street with no sidewalks and a billion restaurants is a mystery) and has a sort of general party. There’s music and vendors in the street and people are everywhere. After returning from Anguilla, we stopped in the town and circled the one known parking lot for a spot to no avail. It was early yet, so we were able to find one just outside of town at not too great a distance (distances should be measured in whether you are wearing flip flops or not — had I been wearing tennis shoes, it would have been no distance at all). We walked into town and found a spot at another lolo (it seems there are at least four clustered together on the northeastern side of the main street), The Rib Shack. I ordered a $3 rum punch and Aaron ordered a $2 Carib and we watched the sunset. For dinner, Aaron tried to order the goat, which was a Tuesday night special. No goat. Instead, oxtail, which is what you see in the above picture. I had the curried chicken, another special, shown below. Yum.

Curried chicken

For our last St Martin meal (besides airport food), we ate at the esteemed Poulet d’Orleans. Apparently, Anthony Bourdain has declared a person who has the opportunity to eat at Poulet d’Orleans and passes on it, “too dumb to live.” I think this is a bit harsh, especially because the restaurant’s location is a bit enigmatic. We spent almost the first week of our vacation thinking the restaurant was an unrelated bar that sits next to the restaurant. And I don’t think we are the only ones who have made that mistake. When we dined at Poulet, we chatted with another American couple who didn’t actually admit that they had trouble figuring out what was where, but stated that the previous year they had had dinner at the bar (this also seemed weird as we had had drinks at the bar and there didn’t seem to be any food. Or a bathroom — we peed in the woods in the back of the bar). Anyway, we ordered the rib plate — beef, lamb and pork — and the signature poulet. I cannot describe how good this food was. The meat was amazing, of course, but I really noticed the unbelievable deliciousness when I bit into my small piece of corn-on-the-cob. The corn had soaked up all of the amazing juices and sauces that had been on the plate and the flavors exploded in my mouth. When I tasted that corn, I am pretty sure my eyes rolled to the back of my head. Heaven.

Poulet d'Orleans: ribs, far plate; chicken, near plate

It was a bit hard to get a good pic because I was using my not-as-good-camera-that-really-does-poorly-at-night. Sorry about that. Not that a picture could do it justice anyway.

Yum

As you can see, I really liked that corn. So, we had the two plates of food — plus, there was a trio of sides to share: potatoes, rice and beans — and a two-glass bottle of wine for $40. I won’t be as harsh as Anthony Bourdain in my review, but I do suggest a trip to this restaurant if you get the chance.

EWR is no SXM or MSN or even, gasp! ORD

Why does that Newark airport suck so much? I always forget how bad it is until I am stuck there for any period of time.

Yesterday, we got up around 8 am and just slowly packed our things to be out of the cottage by 10. Because our flight didn’t leave until 2, we figured we had some time to drive around the island one more time and even have a final lunch somewhere. When we drove away from the cottage, I started to cry a little. We really just did not want to go. We drove around but got stuck in the worst traffic of our vacation. We did not make it to the car rental place until 12, so we figured there was no time for anything else but to drop off the car and head to the airport. Ugh. Why did we leave? Getting on a flight from St Maarten to Newark to transfer to Chicago to transfer to Madison to head home to layoff notices, pay cuts and radical slashes to our collective bargaining rights seemed so…irrational. But that’s what we did.

The airport security in St Maarten was kind of odd. Our passports were checked at the check-in counter  and again before the security screen. And then again at the gate upon boarding the plane. Also at the gate, they made us — and others — throw out their coffee. Sad. And then *random* people — including Aaron — were wanded and searched before getting on the plane in the hallway on the way to board the plane. Hmm.

The flight to Newark was fine, except that I paid the $4 to watch movies on the way and the featured movie was Hereafter, which isn’t really the type of movie an already-scared flier should be watching on a long flight. We landed in Newark and made it through customs and immigration in, I’d say, about 20 minutes. The immigration officer even made a funny joke to us about being one of the missing Democratic senators. We then had to go through security again, which is not a big deal except that it’s Newark. This means that there is a security screening before every 8 gates or so. So when you go through security, you are limited to whatever is set up to cater to only a few gates. In other words, the Continental President Club passes we had would do us no good because our gate had about two amenities in its area. We could risk it, of course, and use the President’s Club outside the gate (or head to any other restaurant or bar outside the gate), but this felt like a pretty significant risk. Our flight was delayed, but just by an hour an a half and the line to go through the gate was huge. We decided to go through the gate and hope that the Red Carpet Club in our gate area, whose sign we could see, would honor our passes (the airlines have merged afterall, right?). It took us more than 30 minutes to get through the gate to the other side…And once on the other side? No Red Carpet Club. Just signs for it. And one restaurant, which had a long line for a table. Ugh. So, we sat in what we hoped would be a quiet area to wait. Wrong. There were people everywhere. And everyone is always talking loudly on their phone. We moved again. It was slightly better. Our flight, though, continued to be delayed. What was supposed to be an 8 pm flight to Chicago quickly turned into being labeled a 10:20 pm flight. Around 8 pm, since we had not eaten in about 9 hours, we decided to get in line for the restaurant. About 20 minutes later, we were seated. About 15 minutes after that, someone took our order. Chaos. We ate, paid and went back to wait at the gate. Finally, around 10:30 pm, we boarded the plane. We then sat on the tarmac until about 11:45.

Ugh. Newark.

We landed in Chicago a little after 1 am and found the hotel shuttle to the Chicago O’Hare Garden Inn, which I had booked for us weeks earlier since our flight did not leave for Madison until 9 am. It was a total of $35. I can’t exactly say I recommend it, or that I would label it — as it does itself — a ’boutique’ hotel, but it did its job. While my side of the bed did not have a bedside table, like Aaron’s, my side also did not have the broken lamp that Aaron’s did. So, you know, there’s that.

I’m grateful, though, that we’re home safely. Even if home is a chilly land without bargaining rights. For today.